Ellery Creek Big Hole
Ellery Creek Big Hole
Surrounded by towering red cliffs and rugged rock formations, Ellery Creek Big Hole is one of the most popular swimming spots in the West MacDonnell Ranges. A short, easy walk along a paved path leads to a permanent waterhole, where the still water sits beneath ancient rock walls and river gums line the sandy banks. This is Ellery Creek Big Hole.
Quick Details
Total Length: 320m
Elevation: Pretty much none
Grade: Easy
Best season: Late autumn to early spring
Suitable for kids: Yes
Starting the Trail
It’s now mid-afternoon and I’m travelling deeper into the West Mac Ranges. The temperature is soaring, but thankfully my next stop is a permanent waterhole — and the perfect place to cool off. I pull into the carpark, where there are plenty of cars in the camping area and people wandering about. I head off down the paved path and only need to take about ten steps before I can see the water ahead.
The waterhole is much larger than I was expecting. There’s something almost storybook-like about the way the water disappears between those towering walls of jagged red rock — as though there's an adventure waiting on the other side for anyone daring enough to venture through and discover what lies beyond.
Cycads, spinifex, and gum saplings cover the walls — apparently growing straight out of the rock itself. The Central Australian landscape must look like two completely different places after a long dry spell compared with after rain.
I’ve sat down to rest in the shade of the tall gums along the bank — it looks like their root systems are the only thing holding the bank together. While it’s nice to escape the direct sun, the shade from the trees doesn’t do much against the heat in the air.
Families are swimming in the shallows, and couples on paddle boards and kayaks are heading out further; disappearing between the walls — daring to find out what there might be on the other shore.
There isn't really a whole lot more for me to photograph unless I'm willing to swim between those rock walls myself. And as tempting as that is, the water is actually really cold. You wouldn't think it possible, but hypothermia is a genuine risk in some of Central Australia's permanent waterholes.
Even though I couldn’t travel through the walls this time (already making plans to bring a board for next time), I wasn’t about to pass up the opportunity to still take a swim in such a beautiful place. Partly because I really wanted to cool down, partly because some combination of sweat, sunscreen and melting mascara had made its way into my eyes, which were now stinging so badly I could barely see.
So the camera’s going back in the car, and I’m jumping in the water. Because the last time I got Jess’ camera wet, it spent two days out of action sitting in a bucket of rice. Considering I’m on a road trip, I have no rice, and I have no bucket. So this is where this week's Trail Journal will have to end.
Getting There
Ellery Creek Big Hole, traditionally known as Udepata to the Arrernte people, is in Tjoritja — West MacDonnell National Park, approximately 80km west of Alice Springs. You’ll find the turn off from Namatjira Drive.
Tips and Tricks
There are basic camping facilities (including toilets and picnic areas) at Ellery Creek Big Hole if you want to make your stay a little longer.
This is a popular swimming spot, but be aware the water can be extremely cold even in summer.
The track to the waterhole is short and paved — you can leave the hiking boots in the car for this one.