Ormiston Gorge
Ormiston Gorge
Ghost gums line the banks of a sandy creek, their pale trunks standing bright against the deep red cliffs of the West MacDonnell Ranges. A short path leads into the gorge, where a beautiful waterhole stretches beneath the towering rock walls. With sandy shores, still water and mountains rising in every direction, it's easy to see why this is one of the most popular places to visit in Tjoritja National Park. This is Ormiston Gorge.
Quick Details
Total Length: 600m
Elevation: Almost none
Grade: Easy
Best season: Year round
Suitable for kids: Yes
Starting the Trail
I’ve had an incredible day driving through the West MacDonnell Ranges. The mountains are beautiful, and I’m already regretting not having more time to spend here. I turn into my last stop of the day, Ormiston Gorge, which I think wins the prize for prettiest road in of the places I’ve visited so far.
I parked the car at my campsite and headed straight for the gorge. There’s a few great walks to do here — and sadly I only have time for the short ones. But I’m already going through my mental calendar and working out when I can visit again to hike the Ormiston Pound Walk.
Ormiston Gorge is one of the more popular spots in the park, and there's a little more infrastructure here than at some of the other places I've visited, including a paved track — which my tired feet are grateful for. I’m the only person out on the trail, and the sounds of the campers soon drift away and are replaced by nothing — a calming silence that you only find in nature.
I could see the Ghost Gum Lookout platform above me and made a mental note to walk up there for sunrise the next morning after I worked out which way east and west were. For now though, the path is leading me down to the water and my excitement at finally seeing Ormiston Gorge is only mildly interrupted when I catch sight of a bright orange life ring, which is not something I ever expected to find here.
Ormiston Gorge
It’s one of those views that’s so breathtaking you’re happy to just stay still and soak it all in. The water perfectly reflects the deep red of the gorge walls. The tall pale gum trees occasionally rustle in the gentle breeze. I could easily stay here until night falls, but if I did that I’d miss out on the rest of the gorge.
As I jump over the rocks to reach the gum trees on the other shore, I’m reminded of that line from I am Australian. You know the one… “I’m Albert Namatjira, and I paint the ghostly gums”. Albert Namatjira lived not far from here, and he actually painted Ormiston Gorge, which now hangs in the Gallery of South Australia.
The sand is soft and loose — the kind that your feet dig into deep with each step. I took my boots off for the first time all day and walked barefoot through the sand and cold water. Despite the heat of the day, the water temperature can be icy cold in many Central Australian gorges and waterholes.
The towering rock walls keep much of the water in shade throughout the day, and the depth of some of the waterholes also helps keep the temperature down. It’s one of those things that you’re just really not expecting when you visit here for the first time, but you can actually catch hypothermia swimming in Central Australian waterholes even in summer.
I wander down to the end of the sandy shore. I think the deepest part of the water is just in front of me. I’m a bit of a wimp when it comes to cold water though, so I won’t be diving down with a tape measure to check. I’m happy to just stand here for a while, watching the reflection in the water occasionally ripple and distort as a black cormorant dives down to catch its dinner — maybe I could give the bird the tape measure…
It’s getting to that great time of the afternoon where the light softens but somehow the red colouring of the rocks seems to be deeper than before. I scrambled over the rocks to get a glimpse at the next section of the gorge before I lost the light entirely.
This is where you come in from the Pound Walk. Even though it’s a circuit, I’ve read that it’s easier to find the track if you walk through the pound first and end through the gorge. If you don’t know what a pound is, in a geological sense, it just means a naturally lower area of ground surrounded by higher ground, like mountains or hills.
For now though, I’ll have to leave what’s left for next time. The clouds are turning pink and I’d like to go make myself dinner before it gets dark. Hopefully there’ll be a good sunrise in the morning because I’ll definitely be making the most of the time I have here.
The Next Morning
Everyone had been telling me for weeks how cold the nights would be here. Well, last night must not have gotten that memo, because it was sweltering ‘til dawn. Originally I had planned to go up to Ghost Gum Lookout for sunrise. However, when I looked up at the platform there was a half naked man in headphones dancing, gyrating, and clapping up there — I’ll find my sunrise elsewhere thanks… Safety first.
I imagine the best place to watch the sunrise or sunset would be from Ghost Gum Lookout, where you're high enough to see over the surrounding hills. Down here in the gorge, the sun takes its time making an appearance. The morning sunlight slowly creeps down the rocky hillsides, chasing away the shadows as it goes. It's beautiful in its own way, watching the colours of the cliffs change in the early morning light. And I could easily stay here for hours… But I’ve got a long day ahead and many more things to see.
Getting There
Ormiston Gorge is located approximately 135km west of Alice Springs in Tjoritja / West MacDonnell National Park. From Alice Springs, follow Larapinta Drive west before turning onto Namatjira Drive. The turn-off to Ormiston Gorge is well signposted, with the final 8km taking you through some beautiful scenery before reaching the campground and visitor area.
The entire drive is on sealed roads, so you won't need a 4WD to visit. Allow around two hours from Alice Springs, although with so many beautiful places to stop along the way, you might find it takes considerably longer!
Tips and Tricks
While the walk to the waterhole is very short, we'd recommend allowing plenty of time to explore the gorge and enjoy the scenery.
If you have a little more time, there are several other walks to choose from, including the 1.2km return Ghost Gum Lookout walk and the much longer 8.5km Ormiston Pound Walk.
Swimming is permitted in the waterhole, but be warned — the water can be surprisingly cold, even on a hot day. Hypothermia is a genuine risk, and with submerged rocks and logs, jumping or diving into the water isn't recommended.