Purling Brook Falls
Purling Brook Falls
This is one of those walks that feels like a complete story. It starts in open eucalypt forest on the edge of the escarpment, drops you into a cool green gorge beside a tall ribbon of water, then winds you back up past lookouts with big valley views. It’s short enough to fit into a few hours, but still feels like you’ve properly been out on a hike. This is Purling Brook Falls.
Quick Details
Total Length: 4km
Elevation: 300m (total)
Grade: Moderate
Best season: After recent rain
Suitable for kids: Only if they’re ok with cliff edges and steep hikes
Starting the Trail
Purling Brook Falls is a popular hike in Springbrook National Park, so I planned on starting early. When I arrived at the Gwongorella picnic area at 7.20am though, the carpark was already half full. There’s a small grassy clearing, picnic tables, and the sound of water somewhere out of sight — Little Nerang Creek already on its way to the cliffs. Signs mark the Purling Brook Falls circuit and the Warringa Pool track; from here, everything is clearly signposted.
It’s recommended to hike the trail clockwise — this way you head down the steeper side and climb back up the less steep side. The day is already getting hot, so I won’t argue with taking the easy way. The track is well maintained and easy to follow, and some of it is even paved.
The trail continues on and you get some great views out over the forest. So far the forest around me isn’t anything spectacular — open eucalypts, dry leaf litter, the odd grass tree — nice enough, but not the lush green rainforest I had in my head when I pictured Springbrook. The real change starts when the track tips properly downhill.
It’s not too long before I’m met with steep downhill sections, mostly on stairs, with the occasional switchback thrown in as well. The further down I go, the more the forest around me changes. It starts to get darker and greener. Grass trees and hakeas thin out, replaced by palms, ferns and mossy trunks. The air cools and thickens.
The ground levels out and I find myself at the base of a large rock wall with a small bridge at its foot. I think this is the bottom of Tanninba Falls, but there’s no water flowing so I can’t tell for sure. It would be a great place to sit for a while if there was more water, but it’s far too hot to hang around for long without it.
The trail continues on through the forest, still heading downhill. There’s more birdsong down here — whipbirds, scrubwrens, the odd yellow robin flicking along the edge of the track. While the forest on the upper track may have been a bit basic, down here it’s lovely. Even so, I’m keen to reach the base of the falls, and I know I can’t be far off now.
The stairs come in short bursts rather than one endless run, which makes them feel manageable. Every so often the trees part and I get a side glimpse of the gorge — sandstone walls streaked black and orange, hanging vines, and sometimes, if the breeze is right, a fine mist drifting across.
Purling Brook Falls
Eventually the track levels out, swings around a rocky corner, and I’m suddenly at the base of Purling Brook Falls. This is the moment the whole walk has been building towards. The waterfall drops from the lip of the cliffs high above, spray drifting across the track. The scale is hard to photograph and even harder to put into words — you just stand there for a moment, neck craned back, letting the whole scene sink in.
Purling Brook is the tallest waterfall in Springbrook National Park at around 106m. Technically it’s classified as a “horsetail waterfall”, which is not something I had ever heard of before visiting. It means the water stays in contact with the rock for most (or all) of the fall, rather than plunging clean out into open air over the edge of the cliff.
John Stacey Bridge
Before leaving the gorge, you cross the creek by a narrow suspension bridge with metal mesh under your boots and cable handrails either side — strung across the water just downstream from the plunge pool. It has a bit of bounce in it when people walk, not enough to be worrying, just enough to remind you you’re hanging above thin air in the bottom of a gorge.
As great as the view is directly at the base, my favourite view was actually from the bridge. From here the view of Purling Brook is straight up the line of the falls: a long white column dropping clean off the orange-and-black cliff, framed by palms and rainforest on either side.
You see how tall it really is from this angle — the water starting as a narrow ribbon at the rim, fanning out halfway down before smashing onto the rocks below. On a still day the falls look almost delicate from the bridge; on a windy one the whole column kicks sideways in the gusts and throws mist across you like light rain.
Back to the Trail
From here the trail heads uphill and out of the gorge. It wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be. There are a few steeper pinches in places, but it’s totally manageable, even in the heat. All too soon I’m back at the top of the gorge, and the trail crosses over the stream before it tips over the edge. There’s a short sidetrack here to view the falls from the top. It’s a good view, but just not as good as seeing it from the base.
The track is wide and paved again as it winds its way back through the trees to the carpark and the end of the hike. The carpark is now overflowing with cars, so I’m glad I decided to hike this one early in the day.
Getting There
Purling Brook Falls is in the Springbrook plateau section of Springbrook National Park, in the Gold Coast hinterland. Look for Forestry Road and follow it to the end, where you’ll find the Gwongorella picnic area and Purling Brook Falls circuit trailhead. There is a carpark, toilets and picnic tables here.
Tips and Tricks
Start early in the day, or go mid-week for your best bet at avoiding the crowds.
There’s no swimming at the base of Purling Brook Falls, but if you take the Warringa Pool track just before you reach the falls, you’ll find a beautiful wild swimming area, and it only adds about an extra 2km to your hike.
Hike the circuit clockwise for the easiest track up the hill.