Simpsons Gap
Simpsons Gap
Towering red cliffs close around a permanent waterhole in the West MacDonnell Ranges, where the colours of Central Australia meet a surprisingly lush pocket of water and green. Just outside Alice Springs, an easy trail follows Roe Creek between river gums and red rock into the narrow opening of Simpsons Gap.
Quick Details
Total Length: 1.8km
Elevation: Minimal
Grade: Easy
Best season: Late autumn to early spring
Suitable for kids: Yes
Starting the Trail
It’s a sunny mid-morning in mid-September and I’m driving out of Alice Springs and into the West MacDonnell Ranges — beginning my solo camping and hiking trip around the Red Centre Way of the Northern Territory. My first stop is only a twenty-minute drive out of town — Simpsons Gap. I pull into the mostly empty carpark, throw on my backpack and head off down the trail.
I picked a good year for the trip. With all the water they’ve had through here in the last twelve months, everything is covered in green. Not the emerald green of a backyard lawn, or the deep greens of a rainforest like I’m used to, but instead this beautiful pale silvery green covering the deep reds of the rocks.
The trail wanders along gently beside Roe Creek — shade is nothing but a fond memory as I walk through the blistering heat. The water is calm and shallow, while twisted gum trees lean over the sandy creek bed. It must look incredible here when the creek is full.
The tall rocky walls either side of the creek lean closer together the further along I walk. Jess and I have been through plenty of canyons and gorges in New South Wales — so there’s something familiar about walking through this one, and at the same time, completely different.
The trail and the water’s edge almost touch and I can feel the cool breeze drifting from the water. A group of Cormorants have gathered on a rock and seem to be arguing amongst themselves — occasionally one will dive off into the water only to pop back up further downstream with a fish in its beak.
A tall white Egret stands in the shallows — oddly looking the same as the wildlife icon on the trail head sign. It was a surprise to find waterbirds here — they’re not quite the wildlife I had expected to find in the middle of Central Australia. I suppose I was expecting to find nothing but sand, sun, and reptiles, maybe the occasional camel. But the amount of wildlife out here is incredible.
I’m close enough to the end of the trail now that I can see the narrow gap between the walls ahead and I’m honestly blown away by how beautiful the scenery around me looks. I pick up the pace and hurry on, keen to meet the end of the trail — and hopefully some relief from the heat.
Simpsons Gap
A short overhang on the left gives some welcome shade from the sun. A few people come and go — staying only long enough to snap a quick photo or two before returning to the car. With so many iconic locations scattered around Red Centre Way, it would be easy to turn a trip out here into a list of places to tick off. I’m quite happy sitting in the shade and doing absolutely nothing for a while.
A strong wind blows through the gap between the walls, spraying water into the air that seems to dry before it touches my skin. I sit beneath the overhang for a while, looking out across the water. The cliffs tower above either side of the gap, glowing deep orange in the midday sun, while the water below is dark enough to reflect almost none of it. It’s only a twenty-minute walk from the carpark, but I’m in no hurry to leave.
I keep looking up at the rugged cliffs around me, at jagged pillars of rock and huge broken slabs scattered down the slopes. There’s something about the West MacDonnell Ranges that feels ancient — almost prehistoric. Maybe it’s the remoteness, or how sparsely vegetated the landscape is, but there’s very little here to remind me of the modern world.
The waterhole stretches right through the narrow opening, disappearing between the cliffs on either side. There’s no walking any further from here — the water has completely claimed the gap. I can only imagine how different this place must look after a long dry spell, when the water recedes and more of the sandy creek bed appears.
As much as I’d love to sit here for the rest of the day, there’s still more locations for me to visit this afternoon. So with a final look at the water, I turn and head back along the trail to the car — excited for what’s still to come on my trip.
Getting There
Simpsons Gap is around 18km west of Alice Springs in Tjoritja / West MacDonnell National Park.
Follow Larapinta Drive west from Alice Springs and turn onto Simpsons Gap Road. The road is sealed all the way to the carpark and suitable for conventional vehicles.
There are toilets and picnic facilities near the carpark.
Tips and Tricks
The walk itself is very short and easy, but you're still in Central Australia. Carry water and wear a hat, sunscreen and sun-protective clothing, particularly during the warmer months.
Early morning or late afternoon will generally be cooler and also gives you a better chance of spotting black-footed rock-wallabies.
Swimming in the waterhole is not permitted.
Check current park alerts and weather conditions before visiting, particularly during periods of extreme heat or after heavy rain.