The Pyramid and Granite Arch
The Pyramid and Granite Arch
The granite doesn’t ease you in gently. It rises steep and uninterrupted — bare rock beneath your feet, the breeze sweeping across the stone. The slope pulls your attention upward, climbing higher and higher towards a peak that seems to sit just beyond what you can fully see as it disappears into the bright blue sky. This is The Pyramid and Granite Arch at Girraween National Park.
Quick Details
Total Length: 4.2km
Elevation: 220m
Grade: Moderate
Best season: Avoid on hot days and when the ground is wet
Suitable for kids: Only if they’re ok with steep edges
Starting the Trail
It was early and there was hardly anyone else around as I pulled into Girraween National Park. Tall granite mountain tops towered above the tree line, rising sharply into the pale morning sky. I grabbed my stuff from the car, threw on my backpack and started walking over to the trailhead. I went to take a photo of the trail sign and realised Jess’ camera wasn’t working…
It had gotten wet in my mad rush back to the car at Apsley Falls in the rain. It had been working last night, but now… it was dead. I threw it on the charger back at the car, and walked over to the information centre while I waited. The information centre had a few interesting exhibits… I read a few of the signs, before going back to fetch the camera — still dead. Oh shit.
Note to self: buy a bag of rice when I go back through Tenterfield.
With the camera out of action, I was left with nothing but my phone. I made my way back to the trailhead and onto the track. The first part is a bit of a tourist section that loops around the creek. The track takes you over flat granite rock. What I found really interesting was that they had concreted a path over the rock. I’d never seen that before.
The creek was nice, and it was already shaping up to be a hot day so it was tempting to just stay by the water where it was cooler — particularly when in the background I could see The Pyramid looming up into the sky. From here the track forks — the Granite Arch loop that joins back up with The Pyramid track on the other side. A small group of people in front of me were taking the track to the left, so I took the one on the right.
The trail was nice enough. Winding gently through dry forest. I had this section of the track to myself, but I could hear the sounds of people out on the trail drifting gently through the trees. When I reached the next junction to head to The Pyramid, I kept to the left to head over to Granite Arch first.
Granite Arch
We love places like this. Places that challenge your brain to realise they’re not man-made. Millions of years of erosion to create a perfectly balanced jumble of boulders. If you’re visiting Girraween with little adventurers, this loop walk would make a great hike.
Back to the Trail
I headed back down the hill and out onto the track towards The Pyramid. The track was still fairly flat and gentle. Granite boulders line either side of the track. Some sitting on top of the ground, others half-buried, waiting a few more million years for erosion to reveal what’s beneath the surface. A signboard along the way has information about the name — The Pyramid.
Originally known as “Terrawambella” by the local Aboriginal language group, the area was later renamed “The Domes” by white settlers before becoming “The Pyramids” in the 1920s. There’s a drawing of a WW1 soldier on the sign, and I wondered if returning soldiers who had been stationed in Egypt were the ones to give it that name. Honestly, I vote to go back to Terrawambella — it’s a much cooler name.
The track had been quite open up until now, but then suddenly the forest was tighter around the track as it started to head uphill on some old rough stairs. There were a couple of tree-clear spaces to catch the view, but it wasn’t really worth stopping for. The trail was steep — although I knew it would be nothing compared to the climb to the top.
I stopped a couple of times to catch my breath. I was, after all, hiking in the summer heat and even though it was still early, the day was already hot. A lot of people were coming down the trail. As The Pyramid is one of the easier mountain climbs in Girraween, it’s a popular sunrise hike.
I passed a big sign warning of the steep terrain ahead so I knew I must be close. I scrambled up a short rocky section and got my first, almost uninterrupted, view of the peak. From here on out I would be walking on the granite. It’s recommended not to attempt this hike in the rain because it makes the granite too slippery. Honestly, I wouldn’t mind a little sunshower right now just to cool off a bit.
A Steep Climb
It’s tracks like these that make me glad I’ve invested in good sturdy hiking boots. I saw people having to slide down the rock on their butt because it genuinely is so steep. Not me though — I was up, down, sideways — the agility of a mountain goat. This is why you shouldn’t go hiking in flip-flops.
In case you couldn’t tell, I actually really enjoyed this section of the trail. The views were incredible across the park, and I just found it fun to navigate the steep terrain. There are white blaze marks painted on the rock to keep you on the right track and stop you from wandering far. You’ll notice a line of boulders on your left. Stick to them if you’re nervous — it’s easier to manage next to them.
At the top of the boulder line, you’ll cross over to the left side of them. There’s one rock scramble to tackle — which only feels difficult because of how steep the rock is beneath you, but I think you can go round it instead. I went round it on my way back down. From here you spiral around the mountain as you climb higher to the top.
Balancing Rock
Around to your left, before you reach the top, is where you’ll find the famous Balancing Rock. Seven metres tall, six metres across, and weighing an estimated ten tonnes, this massive boulder rests on an impossibly small base for its size.
To really see just how incredible it is, you need to walk past it and down the rock a little, then turn back and look at it properly. It’s like a giant Fabergé egg. If it ever decided to roll, I reckon it would take more than a young Tom Cruise sliding in his socks to catch it — talk about Risky Business.
I actually liked this side of the mountain more than the top. You get a great view of the neighbouring dome (known as the Second Pyramid), which is the largest granite dome in the park. I’m still not sure whether you can hike that one — some people told me you could, others were adamant you couldn’t. What I loved most about this side though was the weathering under the rock. There’s this great little cave with the most bizarre pockets carved into the granite.
They’re called tafoni, and are formed through a slow process of chemical weathering. Water seeps into tiny cracks in the granite and reacts with minerals like feldspar. Salt crystals form, expand, and prise the rock apart. The weaker material gradually falls away. That process repeats itself over and over until, eventually, these incredible cavities appear.
Top of The Pyramid
There’s a bit of a rock scramble to climb up to the top — although I suppose the true summit would be the giant boulder that sits just beyond where you can actually reach. I think I’d need to be Spiderman to get up there though.
The views from here are incredible. The landscape is dotted by granite domes in every direction. The only ones I recognised were Turtle Rock and The Sphinx. I planned to hike those for sunset later in the day, but unfortunately a massive storm rolled in later that afternoon and ruined that plan.
What I really loved most about this hike was that the journey was the best part. Yes, the view at the top is incredible, but the journey through Granite Arch, climbing up the steep rock face, and seeing Balancing Rock was what I’ll remember most. I can’t wait to come back to Girraween and hike more of this beautiful park.
P.S. It took two days of sitting in a bag of rice, but the camera came good!
Getting There
The Pyramid walk begins from the main day-use area in Girraween National Park, near the visitor centre and campground. Girraween sits on the Queensland side of the QLD—NSW border, approximately three hours from Brisbane or about half an hour from Tenterfield.
There is ample parking at the main carpark, along with toilets and picnic facilities.
Tips and Tricks
Wear shoes with good grip and ankle support. The terrain of the trail can be uneven and the climb is really steep.
Granite is slippery when wet, so avoid hiking soon after rain.
The views would be incredible for sunrise or sunset. But we’d recommend hiking this trail at least once in daylight first so you’re familiar with it before attempting it in the dark.
